Provenance

About the Dies

Master statement

Each piece in this collection begins with an impression die — a hand-engraved steel block carrying a relief of the design. The die is pressed into sheet metal under tons of force, transferring every line and texture of the original carving into solid silver or brass.

The technique is centuries old. Silversmiths working in the Edwardian, Victorian, and Art Nouveau eras used impression dies to produce the lockets, medallions, conchos, and brooches of their day. Many of those dies survive — small archives of design history — and a few American makers continue to engrave new dies in the same traditions.

The dies I work from come from Potter USA, an American family-run die-maker whose catalog includes both contemporary engravers and reproductions of motifs from historical jewelry houses — Maison Vever in Paris, Riker Brothers and Unger Brothers of Newark, Shreve & Co. of San Francisco, Whiting & Davis of Plainville, among others.

The piece you're holding has been hand-stamped, hand-trimmed, hand-finished, and stamped with my maker's mark. It carries a number indicating its place in the limited drop. In a small way, it continues a tradition more than 150 years long.

— Reed
Renewed Project Works

Where the dies come from

Every die used in this collection is sourced from Potter USA, an American family-run die-maker in Tucson, Arizona. Their catalog spans dies cut by contemporary engravers as well as reproductions of motifs from historic American and European jewelry firms. The two sections below — the engravers and the historic houses — track those two threads.

Section I

The Engravers

These are the individuals whose names sit behind a die-code prefix in Potter's catalog — the people who actually carved the steel. Some are contemporary American engravers; some are early-20th-century European masters whose work survives in this format.

Wayne S. Burch

Die prefix · WSB-

Contemporary, USA

Wayne S. Burch is an American impression-die engraver whose work draws deeply on Victorian and Art Nouveau silversmithing. His dies are widely used by studio jewelers in the U.S. and represent some of the most refined contemporary die-engraving in the country.

Ron Landis

Die prefix · RL-

Contemporary, USA

Ron Landis is a master engraver associated with the Gallery Mint Museum and Gold Bug Engraving. His work in coin and medallion engraving has been recognized by the American Numismatic Association, and his dies translate that flat-relief precision into wearable jewelry.

William Rice

Die prefix · RMP

Contemporary, USA

William Rice is an American engraver working in Potter USA's rolling-mill range, with a body of work centered on hummingbirds and floral motifs. His designs lend themselves particularly well to the elongated tapers used for cuff and bracelet work.

Jules von Pfetten

Die prefix · JVP-

Contemporary, USA

Jules von Pfetten produced the bulk of the JVP-prefix dies in Potter USA's catalog. Many of those dies reference historical French jewelry houses by name in their titles — a form of homage threaded through the work.

Verify exact biographical details with Potter USA before printing on cards.

Otto Krepel

Die prefix · GM-

Early 20th c., Germany

Otto Krepel was a German engraver whose dies entered Potter USA's catalog through historical channels. Period attribution should be confirmed with Potter before final printing.

Verify period and biographical details with Potter USA.

La Forge

Die prefix · LAF-

French (period to verify)

La Forge is the maker named on a small set of French-origin dies in the Potter catalog, including the Dragon Bracelet and Great Aster Mandala. Exact biographical attribution remains to be confirmed.

Attribution and dates pending confirmation with Potter USA.

Section II

The Historic Houses

When a die's motif is named for a particular jewelry firm — Maison Vever, Riker Brothers, Whiting & Davis — that's an act of homage by the engraver. The entries here describe the original house. The piece you're wearing was made in my studio; what it carries is the design language of the named firm.

Maison Vever (Henri Vever)

1821 – c. 1925

Paris, France

Art Nouveau

Maison Vever was one of the premier French Art Nouveau jewelry houses. Henri Vever (1854–1942), grandson of the founder, ran it at its height and was also a serious historian of the craft — his three-volume La Bijouterie Française au XIXe Siècle remains a primary reference for the period.

Whiting & Davis

1876 – present

Plainville, Massachusetts

Late Victorian through Art Deco

Whiting & Davis is the oldest American mesh manufacturer, best known for the fine-mesh evening bags that became a status object from the 1900s through the Jazz Age. Still in operation today, it is one of the longest-running jewelry/accessory houses in the United States.

Riker Brothers

c. 1882 – 1926

Newark, New Jersey

Art Nouveau

Riker Brothers was one of the Newark jewelry houses that made the city the center of American fine-jewelry production around the turn of the 20th century. They worked in plique-à-jour enamel and naturalistic Art Nouveau motifs, and their pieces are now collected as representative of the American take on the style.

Unger Brothers

1872 – 1919

Newark, New Jersey

Art Nouveau

Unger Brothers was a Newark silversmithing firm that produced some of the most recognizable American Art Nouveau silver — flowing female figures, mythological subjects, and dreamlike imagery stamped from steel dies. The Medusa motif is one of their signature designs from the height of the style around 1900–1910.

Shreve & Co.

1852 – present

San Francisco, California

Late Victorian through Edwardian

Shreve & Co. was founded in San Francisco in 1852 and is the oldest retail jeweler still operating in the western United States. Their late-19th-century work — fluted columns, classical figures, hand-engraved silver — is highly collectable and recognizable.

Waite, Thresher & Co.

1859 – 1928

Providence, Rhode Island

Art Nouveau / Edwardian

Waite, Thresher & Co. was a New England silversmithing firm known for ornate filigree and Art Nouveau-period work. Providence at the turn of the century was a center for American jewelry manufacture, and Waite, Thresher was one of the houses that defined the style.

Breuning

1927 – present

Pforzheim, Germany

Modern German

Breuning is a German jewelry firm based in Pforzheim, Germany's historical jewelry-manufacturing center (the "Goldstadt"). The city has produced fine jewelry continuously since the late 18th century, and Breuning is one of the long-running family firms in that tradition.

Rostaing

Art Nouveau era

France

Art Nouveau

Rostaing was a French Art Nouveau jeweler. Like many of the smaller workshops of the period, surviving documentation is limited, but the work survives in the form of dies and reproductions like these.

Augustus Bertrand

Early 20th century

France

Egyptian Revival

Augustus Bertrand was a French scarab and glyptic artist working in the early 20th century, when Egyptian-revival motifs swept European jewelry following the discoveries at Saqqara and the later Tutankhamun excavation. Period attribution should be verified before printing.

Designer attributions for individual dies should be confirmed with Potter USA before being printed on per-piece cards. Contemporary engraver biographies and historical-house details on this page are working drafts; verified citations will be added as they're sourced.